Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Favorite Beekeeping Resources

I tend to do a lot of research on my current topics of interest. Here are some useful resources that you may wish to review:

Beekeeping
http://basicbeekeeping.blogspot.com/
http://www.extension.umn.edu/Honeybees/components/pubs.htm
http://honeybhealthy.com/

Essential Oils and Bee Health

Lavender and Thyme essential oil for mite control: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19795133 Access to full text (fee) here http://www.springerlink.com/content/7287n5777t454026/

Hope these are useful!

Friday, November 13, 2009

Winter Blahs


Oh this season is so hard for gardeners! I hate it when the cold weather hits when there are still green tomatoes on the vine that you were hoping would get a blush of color before you resorted to the brown paper bag method and the last of the dahlia's are water logged and sad. The one saving grace are the holidays and using holly, fir, and boxwood from the garden to decorate the house. Talk about a great way to save money - prune the boxwoods and use the clippings to make holiday wreaths and garlands!

I also like to use aromatherapy to keep my spirits high in this transitional season. It reminds me of those lovely summer days! I of course get my organic therapeutic grade essential oils from the Apothecary Shoppe and here are a couple of my favorite blends:

Energizing Blend
Sweet orange Citrus sinensis oil: 4-drops
Basil Ocimum basilicum oil (Shown in picture): 3-drops

Blend the oils and add 3-drops to a full bath or use a foot or hand bath at least once daily. For those people who shower, adding this formula to liquid soap is an effective alternative.

Uplifting Blend

Clary sage Salvia sclarea oil: 2-drops
Grapefruit Citrus paradisi oil: 2-drops
Sweet orange Citrus sinensis oil: 2-drops
Optional: Gorse flower essence: 3-drops
Optional: Mustard flower essence: 3-drops

Blend all ingredients in a 1-oz bottle. You can add this blend to 1-oz of base oil, such as sweet almond, for a 1% dilution, which is suitable for most users to use in the bath or as a massage oil (check contraindications for preexisting conditions). You can also use this blend to prepare a room spray (see the ACHS YouTube channel for more instructions), add to a candle or use in a diffuser.

Standard precautions: Keep essential oils out of the reach of children. If you are pregnant, nursing, or have a preexisting medical condition, be sure to check for contraindications before using any essential oil. Use common sense and keep essential oils away from eye, nose, and mouth.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Rainwater Collection Presentation and Discussion at St Helens

Rainwater collection is common where I grew up in New Zealand but is just catching on here in the Pacific North West. Yes, you can drink rain water! Its nature's water purifying system. Ok, except for the whole acid rain thing. But if you live in a reasonably clean environment (gosh is there any such thing anymore) you can drink it. At the very least, your garden can drink it!

If you're interested:

See below about an interesting learning opportunity coming up.

Rain Water Collection & Utilization
Date: 11/18/09
Time 6 - 9 PM
Columbia Learning Center Auditorium
375 South 18th St.
St Helens, OR 97051


The Board Members and Staff of the Columbia Soil & Water Conservation District would like to extend an invitation to a presentation and discussion on Rain Water Collection and Utilization. Featuring Guest Speaker Clair Klock, Senior Resource Conservationist, from Clackamas Soil & Water Conservation District.


If you have any questions please contact:
Malyssa Page
Phone: 503-397-4555 X 100
Malyssa.page@or.nacdnet.net

I LOVE My bees!


About a month ago, I got two beehives from a beekeeper in Vancouver Washington and brought them home to the farm in Sherwood. It was quite an adventure moving them - the beekeeper had sealed them up early in the morning, and we went midday and loaded them in the car to drive home, along with all of their accouterments - surprisingly bees have nearly as much stuff as babies!

Needless to say a few escaped in the car, which freaked our daughter out no end and we had to put our beekeeping hoods on. Must have been funny for other drivers on I5 who caught a glance!

We got home, moved the beehives to their new location at dusk, and let them out and they seem happy so far. We had some flowers still in bloom including a second flush of Lavandula angustifolia, sunflowers, and borage, which they took advantage of. We have the hives facing east and on warm days the buzzing is phenomenal. We started feeding them with drivert sugar syrup with healthy bee (containing essential oils) mixed in and they are going through a pail a week so far since the rains have hit in earnest.

Our bees seem very happy. So happy in fact that I am no longer using any protective gear when I check the hives! I use a bit of sugar water with some healthy happy bee mixed in (an essential oil blend) and they don't bother me at all. Its very zen - the less stressed you are, the happier and less aggressive the bees will be. We won't be taking any honey off them until next fall so maybe it will be a different story then, but for now, we're peacefully coexisting - we haven't had one sting - even during transporting them!

I had done quite a bit of reading before we got the bees, as I'd been wanting to get some for a while. My mum had bees when we were growing up and I have fond memories of helping her spin out the honey, smoke the bees, and getting stung! Well the memories of getting stung are not that fond, but lets just say that now I don't react much to bee stings!

Mum came to help us get the bees situated and she does have a bee whisperer knack it seems! When a large group of bees rushed out of the hive it gave me a fright, but she soothingly talked to them and calmed us all down (me, my husband and the bees!).

So far, the bees have been very easy to look after - they seem pretty calm - we check them once a week to make sure they have some sugar syrup left and look ok and thats about it. The beekeeper we bought them from had left a full hive of honey for them for the winter so they are in good shape so far. The blocks we set the hives on have settled and the hives are sloping a bit backwards, so one night this week we need to build them up so that they are sloping slightly forward to avoid water getting into the hive and causing mold.

But I am getting anxious the more I read. I also watched "The Last Beekeeper" on the Green Channel last night, and have been watching the show that works with A Year in the Life book. I've been reading Natural Beekeeping, Beekeeping for Dummies and a couple of other books. Its amazing how much there is to learn about these awesome creatures.

The Last Beekeeper was upsetting tho. These poor bees being schlepped across the country to pollinate the Californian almonds - and massive numbers of the hives simply dying from CCD (colony collapse disorder) - which supposedly has no definitive cause.

But let me posit these thoughts:
- Bees in nature travel 2-6 miles to collect nectar. Bees now are being trucked thousands of miles, exposing them to massive doses of pesticides, a variety of insect pests (like mites) and diseases that may or may not be in their home environment
- Bees are being put into monoculture crops that, due to their lack of sustainability, have to be heavily sprayed with insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides. This is making a chemical cocktail in the beehives. Bees, by nature, are monogamous- they pollinate mostly one crop at a time - which makes them ideal for pollination. But in nature, the plants themselves are growing with many other plants. Any time there is a massive industrial monoculture - whether it is corn, soybeans, or almonds , it makes it impossible for a sustainable pattern to exist
- Bees are exposed to many diseases and pests through this practice - its just like people flying a lot for business and getting exposed to a bunch of viruses - only of course we choose to do this - the bees have no choice!
- The travel itself is stressful to bees
- In nature, bees get the winter off. Now they are being forced to work almost year round.

One of the beekeepers in the movie commented "Bees are made to serve". That made my skin crawl. In the words of my daughter, "Dude!"! Bees are not made to serve! They are here fulfilling their own destiny, which coincidentally helps humans, and oh, by the way, the entire ecosystem. Yes, its possible for humans to manage bees in a way that optimizes how much they help us - but by destroying their natural ecosystems and lifecycle patterns, we're putting so much stress on them its almost inevitable that they would start to decline. They cant evolve fast enough to keep up with the toxins and stress! According to this documentary, if bees continue to die at the same rate, they will vanish from the US by the year 2035. This should be headline news!

I am a problem solver. And yes, there is lots of research going on with lots of brilliant people trying to figure out a solution. But, from a complete and utter newbie, here are some ideas:
- Why don't the Californian almond farmers (and other monoculture agricultural systems that rely on bees for pollination) underplant their crops with wildflowers (for longer nectar supply) and get their own beehives. The amount that the farmers pay for pollination services would surely pay for a year round beekeeper to look after their own beehives. No trucking bees around = less stress on the bees + less spread of disease and pests = less bee death?
- Let's leave most of the honey on for the bees to live on in the winter. Its completely unsustainable to take so much honey that the bees are living on sugar water. Sugar water is not nectar. Its like saying humans dont need fruit, just eat candy. Chemically its all broken down to glucose, but the nutrients found in fruit are the most beneficial part of eating fruit for a human. I am sure bees benefit in the same way from nectar and honey.
- Try to duplicate the natural habitat of bees as much as possible. Don't have thousands of hives living in an industrial warehouse eating sugar water. That seems like an ideal way to stress the bees and facilitate the spread of diseases and pests like mites. Spread them out in some local farmland maybe?

Yes, I know, there are lots of issues at stake here. But the bees are dying. In massive numbers. So the status quo is NOT working. So lets change it!

And for the rest of us with small farms, or even urban farms, think about getting a beehive! Happy bees are not aggressive and you'll get enhanced pollination of your own crops and your neighbors. This is particularly synergistic if you follow organic principles - the bees get clean nectar and pollen, and you get a bit of honey and enhanced pollination. I thought my chickens were my favorite farm animals until I got the bees :)

Another person on the documentary summed it up quite nicely: "Let bees be bees". Bees and people can live synergistically but we need to care for the bees. Not exploit them.

My two cents!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

What To Do In the Garden in November?

Winter is nearly upon us in full force but that doesn't mean us gardener's can slack off just yet! Here is the (big!) list of things to do in the PNW in November in your garden! Enjoy!
**************
OSU Extension Service Metro Master Gardener Newsletter November 2009 20
November Garden Hints
Oregon State University Extension Service encourages sustainable gardening practices. Pre-
ventative pest management is emphasized over reactive pest control. Identify and monitor
problems before acting, and opt for the least toxic approach that will remedy the problem.
First consider cultural, and then physical controls. The conservation of biological control
agents (predators, parasitoids) should be favored over the purchase and release of biological
controls. Use chemical controls only when necessary, only after identifying a pest problem,
and only after thoroughly reading the pesticide label. Least-toxic choices include insecticidal
soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides — when used
judiciously.
Recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For
more information, contact your local OSU Extension Service office.
Planning
Force spring bulbs for indoor blooms in December.
Maintenance and Clean Up
Service lawn mower prior to winter.
􏰀 Check potatoes in storage and remove any going bad.
􏰀 Place a portable cold frame over rows of winter vegetables.
􏰀 Place mulch around berries for winter protection.
􏰀 Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and straw.
􏰀 Rake and compost leaves that are free of diseases and insects. Use mulches to prevent ero-
sion and compaction from rain.
􏰀 Protect built-in sprinkler systems: drain the system, insulate the valve mechanisms.
􏰀 Clean and oil lawnmower, other garden equipment and tools before storing for winter. Drain
and store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Renew mulch around perennial flower
beds after removing weeds.
􏰀 Protect tender evergreens from drying wind.
􏰀 Tie limbs of upright evergreens to prevent breakage by snow or ice.
􏰀 Trim chrysanthemums to 4 to 6 inches after they finish blooming.
Leave ornamental grasses up in winter to provide winter texture in the landscape. Cut them
back a few inches above the ground in early spring.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Last chance to plant cover crops for soil building. You can also use a 3- to
4-inch layer of leaves, spread over the garden plot, to eliminate winter weeds, suppress early
spring weeds and prevent soil compaction by rain.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in yard during heavy rains. Til-
ing, ditching, and French drains are possible solutions. Consider rain gardens and bioswales as
a long-term solution.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Take cuttings of rhododendrons and camellias for propagation; propagate
begonias from leaf cuttings.
Western Oregon: Prune roses to "knee-high" to prevent winter wind damage.

􏰀 Central/eastern Oregon: Water your newly planted perennials, trees and shrubs every 6 to 8
weeks with a deep soaking to prevent drying out, if there is no snow cover and the ground is warm
enough to accept water.
Central/eastern Oregon: Wrap the trunks of young, thin-barked trees (maples, aspen, ash) with
paper tree wrap late in the month to prevent sunscald. Remove in April. Wrap new trees 2-3
years in a row until the outer bark has thickened.
Planting/Propagation
􏰀 Plant window garden of lettuce, chives, parsley.
􏰀 Good time to plant trees and shrubs. Consider planting shrubs and trees that supply food and
shelter to birds; e.g., sumac, elderberry, flowering currant, and mock orange.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths,
crocuses. Don't delay.
Western Oregon: Good time to plant garlic for harvest next summer, and to transplant land-
scape trees and shrubs.
Pest Monitoring and Management
􏰀 Monitor landscape plants for problems. Don’t treat unless a problem is identified.
􏰀 Rake and destroy leaves from fruit trees that were diseased this year. Remove and discard mum-
mified fruit.
􏰀 Check firewood for insect infestations. Burn affected wood first and don’t store inside.
􏰀 Treat peaches 4 weeks after leaf fall spray for peach leaf curl and shothole diseases.
􏰀 Western Oregon: Moss appearing in lawn may mean too much shade or poor drainage. Correct
site conditions if moss is bothersome.
Western Oregon: Bait garden, flower beds for slugs during rainy periods. Use traps or new
phosphate baits, which are pet-safe.
Houseplants and Indoor Gardening
Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants.

Source: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/mg/metro/newsletter